Are you considering getting a DSLR?  Need some real world advice. . . . This is mine.  Here’s a list of things to consider, some information about lenses to consider, buying options, and a few things to plan on once you get your new camera.  Keep in mind this isn’t to be all inclusive or expert advice, this is what I would (and do) tell a friend considering a DSLR camera.

Things to Consider:

#1 Just How Much you can afford. I highly recommend getting the most camera you can. . . The lower levels are the ones people grow out off. There are limitations to Nikon’s D40, D60 that limit the lenses you can use etc. Once you choose your camera body, you’re not going to want to keep upgraded. . . That technology is constantly changing and after you purchase the body, you’re better off investing in the lenses.

For me, that meant waiting longer but I got the Nikon D80- for some of the reasons I’m about to list. . . The biggest thing I knew was that given the next level, body only, was going to be several thousand dollars- there was no way that I was going to be able to upgrade for a long, long time. (Of course, now the D90 has replaced the D80). I also knew that I’d be buying a second camera for DH at some point- so that also factored into my price considerations. DH and I both of have D80′s. (I might could have upgraded to the D90 when I got the second one but I wanted the both of us to have the same controls etc. The D90 also brought a higher price tag to this level of camera . . . and video)

#2- Focus Points- The more focus points the camera has the better. For example, some only have 3, some 9, I think mine had 11, and some have 51. These are the points where the camera will focus etc.

#3- ISO- ISO is like when you chose film speed. ISO is another big factor if you ask me. You want to be able to have a higher range. Basically, the higher the ISO the more you can do in low light. Cameras with high ISO’s typically have less noise at the same range as cameras with Low ISO’s. (Non Techie term for Noise- messed up photo- LOL- you’ll see pixels etc)

#4- Full Frame vs Crop Factor. OK, unless you’re ready to spend big bucks, you really won’t be considering this but it’s something you should know. . . There are two types of DSLR. . . Full Frame and Crop Factor. Full Frame gets more into the picture but these are the big high $ ones. A 50 mm lens is going to be seen at 50 mm. Crop Factors get less into the picture. . . A 50 mm lens is going to be like 85 mm. So, assuming you’re going to get a crop factor camera, you’re lenses will be zoomed in a bit more.

#5 Size and Fit- This, along with price, was a huge factor for me when I was deciding Canon or Nikon. . . The Canon in the same feature range was much much larger. It was heavier but because of the size it was harder for me to hold. My brother busted up laughing when I went to pick it up. (At the time, he was working at Circuit City and I visited him at work just to physically lay eyes on the cameras I was considering)

#6 Video- This wasn’t even an option when I got my camera. . . But, if that’s something you might like to have, it should factor into your decision.

#7 Factors such as frames per second, flash exposure braketing etc. Just take a look at the features list and think about what you might want.

#8- Canon Vs. Nikon. This is an age old debate that’s really not a debate- they’re both great. . . Unfortunately, the fact that their lenses aren’t interchangeable means that your either in one camp or the other. Once you choose, you’re going to want to stick with that brand- otherwise you’ll have to swap all your lenses and that gets expensive. Here’s what I consider to be the biggest differences. . . .
Price- Nikon camera bodies and lenses are usually cheaper for the same features.
(Features) In taking a photography class recently, I also learned though that Nikon has several great features that Canon does not. . . two I use all the time- the Auto ISO (Which both have, but Nikon has options that make this setting worthwhile) and the way it sets a custom white balance.
Lens Selection- Canon does offer a greater variety of lenses

(In my book, I wanted the focus points and other features of the D80 and the equivalent Canon. Only the equivalent Canon was like $500 more. . . I’ll never be able to afford most of the lenses Nikon offers so the fact that Canon has more doesn’t appeal to me more.)

I would stick with Canon or Nikon as these are the two widely used.

Purchase Options

Body Only- Literally No lens With it.

Body and Kit Lenses- You’ll see lenses and camera sold together. These are often called “Kit Lenses” and aren’t as good a quality as others lenses. There are differing opinions on whether or not you should get the kit lenses. In my book, for me, I could have gotten one lenses or the two kit lenses- I got a better range by going with the Kit Lenses- I couldn’t imagine not begin able to do wide angle AND zoom in on something. (My D80 came with an 18-55 and 55-200 kit lens. . the only other lens I own is the inexpensive f/1.8 50 mm- a lens that doesn’t work as well on the lower models- like D40- of Nikon cameras) And honestly, I don’t really notice any quality difference in my kit lenses. . . It’s much more about the photography work than the lens quality.

Body and then Buy Other Lenses- This is also an option. It avoids getting the Kit Lenses and gives you the freedom to choose lengths and f/stops.

Rent- You can actually rent both cameras and lenses. There’s several places online where you can do this. It gives you a chance to try them before you buy. I rented a fish-eye which I’d been pipe dreaming about. . . and found I didn’t like it as much as I thought I would. . . That experience was enough to teach me that before making any big lens purchase, I’ll be trying it out by renting it first.

Where? I highly recommend you look at places like B&H Photo Video (bhphotovideo.com) or Adorama (adorama.com) as their prices can be much cheaper than what you might find in a store. . . Although, if you have a mom & pop camera store, they’re always nice to support.

Lens Considerations and Info

Telephoto refers to ones that zoom in- that cover long ranges. AKA 200 MM

Zoom Lenses- these are ones that cover a range. AKA 55-200 mm or my 18-55. (Zoom lenses can over lap wide angle, standard, and telephoto lenses- they can be both.)

Fixed Lenses- These are the ones that only go to one length. . . aka my 50 mm. (PS The 50 mm on a crop factor camera is considered to be an excellant lens for everyday photography and portraits. . . and because it comes with a low number f stop (1.2-1.8 typically) it works better in low light.

Vibration Reduction- You will want to consider this for longer range lenses for sure. Both of my kit lenses have VR. (I can’t remember what Canon calls it.) Just remember to turn if off when you’ve got the camera on a tripod.

F-Stop- I mentioned earlier that a F/ 1.8 is great in low light. F-Stops are backwards from the way you would think. . . a low number is a larger f/stop or wider aperture. Each lens has a maximum aperature. . . the lower the actual number, the better it can perform in low light. (It’s also part of the equation to get Bokeh or a blurred background.) This part isn’t as good on kit lenses as other lenses. If you’re wanting to capture action indoors, ultimately, that max aperature is going to come into play. (Look for a zoom with f/2.8- but be prepared to pay.)  If you can’t afford a zoom with a fixed maximum aperture, like me, you’ll see lenses that have a range.  My 55-200 mm has a range of 4.5-5.6 for a max aperture.  What does that mean?  At 55 mm I can get a max aperture of 4.5 vs at 200 mm I can only get to 5.6. . . meaning that I can’t do as well in low light zoomed in.

Plan on:

Reading Your Manual

Purchasing another manual. . . Like the Magic Lantern guide for the specific camera your purchase. Then reading it. I recommend that when you have a question, you go back to the guide and try to figure it out. Wonder what that setting is? or having a problem? Try looking it up. (Sometimes it’s easier to digest when you’ve got a specific something you’re trying to figure out.) Refer to the manual often.

Taking really bad shots. . . Karen Russell puts it this way- you have to become a worse photographer in order to become a better one. You’re going to take bad shots. It’s part of the learning process. Just be thankful it’s digital and you can just delete.

Shooting in Program Mode and Aperture Priority- You’re not getting this camera to stay stuck in Auto. Start with Program Mode- this allows you to change things like whether or not the flash comes on or your white balance. . .Start making some adjustments. Then, try aperature priority mode. Choosing a lower number f/stop (Wide aperature like 1.8 or it might only by 4.5 depending on the lens) when you want more of the background blurred and less in focus. A higher number f/stop (narrow aperture) when you want more in focus. Do not feel that you have to shoot fully manual.

Changing your ISO- If you don’t have your ISO set to Auto, you’ll want to change it. You really want some control over your ISO. . . To high and you’ll get grain, to low and the shutter speed will be too slow. Try to adjust your aperature so that you get at least a 60th of a second shutter speed and closer to 250th of a shutter speed for action shots.

Taking some classes. . . I know Candice Strigham does some classes at Jessica Sprague. I took the Portrait class and loved it. Big Picture Scrapbooking I know have some classes. By far, though, I cannot recommend Karen Russell’s class (snapshotsofagoodlife.com) enough!!!!!!! That class totally changed everything for me. . . the price was high but well worth it. . . she’s changing things up a bit and so there’s now a few other options.  And I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Kelby Training.